The Complete Guide to Washing Delicates and Special Fabrics

Your favourite silk blouse, that gorgeous lace dress, the cashmere jumper that cost a fortune—these pieces deserve special care that goes beyond tossing them in with the regular laundry. Delicate fabrics require specific handling to maintain their beauty, structure, and longevity. This guide covers everything you need to know about washing delicates safely, whether by machine or by hand.

Understanding Delicate Fabrics

Delicate fabrics share certain characteristics that make them vulnerable to damage from standard washing: thin or fine fibres, loose weaves, natural proteins that can be damaged by heat or agitation, and specialised finishes that require gentle handling. Understanding why fabrics are delicate helps you care for them properly.

Common Delicate Fabrics

• Silk: A protein fibre that loses strength when wet and is sensitive to heat, friction, and alkaline detergents
• Wool: Prone to shrinkage and felting from heat and agitation, and can lose shape when wet
• Cashmere: An exceptionally fine wool requiring even gentler handling
• Lace: Open, delicate construction easily snagged or torn
• Chiffon: Extremely lightweight and sheer, prone to snagging
• Satin: Smooth surface easily marred by friction or snags
• Lingerie: Often combines delicate fabrics with elastic and underwires

Before You Wash: Essential Preparation

Read the Care Label

Always check the care label first. If it says "dry clean only," take this seriously, especially for structured garments, garments with linings, or items with embellishments that might not survive washing. "Dry clean" without "only" suggests professional cleaning is recommended but gentle home washing may be acceptable.

Test for Colourfastness

Before washing any delicate item for the first time, test for colourfastness. Dampen an inconspicuous area and press a white cloth against it. If colour transfers, the item isn't colourfast and needs special handling or professional cleaning.

Sort Carefully

Wash delicates separately from regular laundry. Sort by colour and fabric type—silks with silks, woolens with woolens. Never wash delicates with items that have zippers, hooks, or rough textures that could snag fine fabrics.

Machine Washing Delicates

Many delicates can be safely machine washed if you take proper precautions:

Use Mesh Laundry Bags

Mesh laundry bags are essential for machine-washing delicates. They protect items from snagging, tangling, and friction damage during the wash cycle. Use different bags for different items—don't cram everything together. Bras should go in padded lingerie bags designed to protect cups and underwires.

Choose the Right Cycle

Select the delicate, gentle, or hand-wash cycle on your machine. These cycles use slow drum rotation, minimal agitation, and low spin speeds. Some machines have specific cycles for silk or wool, which are calibrated for these particular fabrics.

Temperature Matters

Always use cold water for delicates. Heat damages protein fibres like silk and wool, causes shrinkage, and can set stains. Cold water is gentler and helps maintain fabric integrity and colour.

Select the Right Detergent

Use a detergent specifically formulated for delicates or fine fabrics. These are pH-neutral and free of harsh enzymes and optical brighteners that can damage delicate fibres. Wool requires a detergent safe for protein fibres. Never use regular laundry detergent, which is too harsh for delicates.

Reduce Spin Speed

High-speed spinning can stretch, distort, and damage delicate fabrics. Select the lowest spin speed available, or choose no spin at all. The extra moisture in your clothes is preferable to spin damage.

Hand Washing Delicates

For your most precious items, or those labelled "hand wash only," hand washing provides the gentlest care:

Prepare the Wash

Fill a clean basin or sink with cool or lukewarm water. Add a small amount of delicate wash detergent and swirl to dissolve. The water should feel just slightly soapy, not sudsy.

Washing Technique

Submerge the garment and gently swish it through the water. Don't wring, twist, scrub, or rub the fabric against itself—these actions cause damage. Let items soak for a few minutes if needed for cleaning, but don't leave them too long, especially silk.

Rinsing

Drain the soapy water and refill with clean cool water. Gently move the garment through the water to remove detergent. Repeat until the water runs clear. Any detergent residue can damage fibres and attract dirt.

Removing Water

Never wring delicates. Instead, lift the garment from the water supporting its full weight, then lay it flat on a clean towel. Roll the towel up with the garment inside, gently pressing to absorb excess water. Unroll and reshape the garment on a dry towel or drying rack.

Specific Fabric Care

Silk

Silk is one of the most delicate natural fibres. Always use cool water and silk-specific or pH-neutral detergent. Never use chlorine bleach or enzyme-based detergents on silk. Don't soak silk for extended periods, as water can damage the fibres. Air dry away from direct sunlight, which fades and weakens silk.

Wool and Cashmere

Wool felts and shrinks when exposed to heat, friction, or sudden temperature changes. Always use cool water and wool-safe detergent. Handle gently when wet, as wool is weaker in this state. Lay flat to dry to prevent stretching. Never hang wet wool garments, as they'll distort under their own weight.

Lace

Lace's open construction makes it prone to snagging and tearing. Always use a mesh bag, even for hand washing, to contain the item and protect it from catching on anything. Lay flat or hang to dry, depending on the weight of the item.

Bras and Lingerie

Bras should ideally be hand washed to preserve elastic and maintain shape. If machine washing, always use a lingerie bag, wash on delicate cycle with cold water, and hook clasps to prevent snagging. Never put bras in the dryer—the heat destroys elastic. Reshape cups while damp and air dry.

Storage and Ongoing Care

Proper storage protects delicates between wearings:

• Store wool and cashmere folded, not hung, to prevent shoulder bumps and stretching
• Keep silk away from light to prevent fading
• Use breathable garment bags for special items
• Cedar blocks or lavender sachets deter moths from wool items
• Allow items to air out between wearings before storing

When to Skip Home Washing

Some items truly require professional cleaning:

• Structured garments like tailored jackets and suits
• Items with extensive beading, sequins, or embellishments
• Vintage or antique textiles
• Garments with multiple fabric types that have different care requirements
• Leather or suede trim
• Anything you're not comfortable risking